lunedì 18 gennaio 2010

Fritto misto

One of the specialties of my mother is the Fritto misto, literally "fried mixture". She is really good in that and she has unique capabilities in doing a perfect dish. I know what you think, fried food is junk food, is not good for your health, and is not a “gourmet” specialty. However try a real fritto misto Tuscan way and you will change your mind. In Florence there used to be several deep frying shops (friggitorie) that served everything from antipasti (coccoli), to sweets (doughnuts, called Bomboloni). There is one left in via S.Antonino, but last time I went was run by Chinese serving spring rolls! I don’t have anything against them, but for sure is no longer the “Tuscan” version. There are several bakeries (pasticceria) that usually serve doughnuts after 4 p.m. The best one is in Piazza Viesseux, and we used to go there on Sundays, usually to sweeten the defeat of Fiorentina. For a good deep fried mix I have heard that “Trattoria I ricchi “ in Cercina is the best: http://www.iricchi.it/English/index.html.
However if you are far away from Florence and you want to try a fritto misto here is how to prepare it. In this post I will give you an overview of the different deep frying techniques and what you can prepare using those. If you want to try other things, just send me a comment and I will give you suggestions on how to fry it!
What is in a fritto misto:
Meat
Chicken, usually with bones and cut into pieces around 4-5 cm long. I would leave out the wings. Wash the meat, but do not marinate it!
Rabbit, usually with bones and cut into pieces around 4-5 cm long. Wash the meat, but do not marinate it!
Brain. Yes it is a Tuscan specialty. However I dislike the idea and would not know how to prepare it. If you wish to try I will ask my mum that used to prepare it.
Vegetables:
Potatoes. Be careful here on what variety you choose. I hardly find good potatoes to deep fry nowadays. I don’t know which the best is, just try out different varieties! I cut them in sticks 0.5 cm thick and leave in water to remove the excess starch.
Zucchini. Cut in slices around 0.5 mm thick
Artichokes. Remove the external leaves and once you have the “heart” remove the top part (usually purple color). Cut in quarters and remove the “hairs” that you find inside. Cut the quarters in smaller segments/slices (0.5 cm thick) and leave them in water with some lemon to avoid their blackening.
Mushrooms: must be Porcini (boletus). Fresh and hard. Cut into 1-2 cm dices.

Bread:
Yes I know what you mean, Tuscan are worse than Scottish when it comes to deep frying. Actually it is true even if we would never think of frying a Mars bar!

I do not have a deep fryer so I use an iron pan. The rule would ask to use Extra Virgin Olive oil, however that you are careful not to overheat the oil, peanuts oil is perfect. The pan must be full of oil, so that whatever you fry will be soaked. If you are planning a fritto misto, fry the potatoes first and then all the rest, leaving the meat at last.
For the potatoes, dry with a kitchen towel and then pour in the hot oil. Let them fry at medium heat (you have to al least hear the frying!)covered for a few minutes until soft, then rise the heat and remove the cover for the last touch. Remove when they have formed the hard shell.
For the zucchini you need to prepare the batter. Beat an egg with flour and salt and add some water or milk to create a creamy mixture. Adjust the texture with flour and water so that you have a thick batter that flows and sticks to the zucchini. Pour the zucchini in the batter, make sure that they are fully covered and then pour them in oil and fry until golden turning them a couple of times. Add salt and serve hot. You have some batter left. Pour little spoons in the hot oil and create small “frittelle”
For the artichokes and meat. Make sure that the ingredients are wet and then pour in flour so that they are well covered. Beat an egg with some salt and slightly cover the floured ingredient with that before pouring in the hot oil. Make sure that the egg just covers the meat, etc. To do so I usually pour the ingredients in the eggs and then take them out with a fork and with a shake I try to drain out the excess before pouring in the hot oil. You have some egg left? Take slices of bread; pass them in the egg and then fry. It is delicious!
Mushrooms: Slightly wash the mushrooms and then cover with “yellow flour”, i.e. polenta or corn flour before frying them.
Add salt to your taste and serve with lemon. Do you want to do it Tuscan style? Please refrain from using any sauce. I allow you only some lemon juice!!!!

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